We went to the Catholic burying ground. ... No grave could be dug of the usual depth without coming to water, ... the coffin is laid upon the surface of the ground, and a strong structure of brick built around it. This is then plastered and whitewashed.

John H.B. Latrobe, ca. 1834

Limewashing Guidelines

All stucco tombs were painted for decoration and protection with limewashes of various colors. Traditional and acrylic- amended limewashes are still recommended as the most serviceable protective coatings for stucco covered tombs. Evidence of ochre, red, and gray colored and white limewashes has been found on tombs as well as in numerous historical images. Individual tombs can be analyzed to determine their original colors and refinished to match the most significant historical color.

Stable lightfast alkali-proof cement pigments should be used to recreate these colored washes. For most tombs, a plain unpigmented whitewash is recommended. Contact Save Our Cemeteries for a color chart of traditional limewashes currently in use for the Alley 9L restoration project and for information on limewash recipes and material sources.

If slaked lime putty is not available, thoroughly mix hydrated lime (Type S) with water to a putty consistency, top with water, and allow it to stand covered for at least 24 hours; two weeks is preferable. Before applying, sieve the lime through a fine screen and thin with water to the consistency of light cream. To increase adhesion of paint to the old surface, a diluted acrylic emulsion can be added to the mixing water in a ratio (by volume) of approximately 1 part acrylic to 10 parts water just before use. If a pigmented limewash is used, the correct ratio of pigment to limewash should first be determined by the prepartion of small test batches, applied to the tomb surface and allowed to dry.

Pigmented limewashes should be mixed in large enough quantities for each single application coat and no less than 1-2 gallons. White limewash is best pigmented by first mixing the total amount of pigment required in a small amount of water or limewash and then adding that into the larger quantity to be pigmented. Never add the pigment dry into the limewash as it will not evenly disperse and cause streaking. Mix well by hand, or with a mechanical mixer, for not less than 15 minutes.

Before application of any paint finishes, stucco surfaces should be free of dirt, debris, oil, biological growth, and flaking paint; otherwise the limewash will not bond. Heavy accumulations of earlier finishes can be easily removed by hand scrapping aided by low pressure water such as a garden hose. More specialized methods of paint removal are possible; however these are best performed by an experienced professional, as they can cause great damage to stucco and stonework as well as cause personal injury if misapplied.

Dampen the wall with water and then apply the limewash with traditional distemper or tampico fiber brushes, brushing it on in short multi-directional stroke applications. As the water evaporates from the limewash, rework, or polish the surface finish for even distribution. Due to the rapid drying, limewash should be applied in small areas to avoid drying at the overlap. Apply several thin coats (at least three), allowing each coat to dry before applying the next coat. Dampen the surface between coats and avoid working in direct sun.

If used properly, limewash finishes are durable, inexpensive, easy to apply and environmentally and user friendly. Their translucent appearance cannot be duplicated by opaque modern synthetic "latex" paints and their eventual build-up is easily removed unlike latex and oil-based paints.

Opening quote: John H.B. Latrobe, John H. B. Latrobe and His Times – 1803-1891, edited by John E. Semmes, (Baltimore, 1917).

Text adapted from St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 Guidelines for Preservation and Restoration. The full document of guidelines can be downloaded as a pdf file. Go There.